By David Holloway | dholloway@al.com
on January 28, 2013 at 1:49 PM, updated January 28, 2013 at
2:45 PM
MOBILE, Alabama -- Mardi Gras is steeped in mystery
and intrigue, a celebration marked by odd customs that can seem odd to folks
unfamiliar with our brand of revelry.
Standing on a corner, for instance, and having strangers
hurl trinkets and foodstuff to you from passing floats is an unusual way to get
ready for the solemnity of Lent. As my good friend Wendell Quimby likes to say
“It ain’t for everybody” and we know this and we like this.
But one of the more endearing and unusual customs of Mardi
Gras involves a delicious cake that is only available during Carnival.
The King Cake goes on sale, according to legend, around New
Year’s Day and is offered throughout the Carnival season. But come Ash
Wednesday, when the 40 day lead up to Easter begins, the cake pans are packed
away until next year.
Though the King Cake dates back to the 1600s, it is a
relative newcomer to the Coastal Alabama party. It is widely held by folks who
know (me) that the King Cake was first introduced to Alabama’s Mardi Gras
celebration about 1959.
The man who is credited with bringing this tasty cake to the
party is the late Fred Pollman of the famous bakery that still bears his family
name. Mr. Pollman had visited the Crescent City and he discovered the locals
there were all about a brioche cake that was decorated with the colors of Mardi
Gras – purple, green and gold.
He fiddled with the recipe and, made it a tad lighter and
less dense and he rest is history. It is often sold with a variety of fillings,
from cream cheese to jellied fruit; among purists, though, the plain version is
also very popular.
Yeah, but what’s the deal with the baby?
A tiny, pink, plastic baby is often hidden within the cake
and the finder is then bound by custom to bring a King Cake to the next social
gathering of the season. Some commercial bakers now opt not to include the tiny
baby inside the cake, choosing to include it with the cake so you can put it in
if you like.
King Cakes are widely available from a number of outlets,
both in person and online. But if for some reason you don’t have access to one
you can make it yourself at home. Be advised, it is a detailed and lengthy
process but the cake is delicious.
Take heart, gentle readers. The folks over at Windmill
Market in Fairhope, Ala., are going to show you how it’s done. They are hosting
a series of King Cake-cooking classes, the next of which is Thursday, Jan. 31.
“Our cooking classes are small and intimate groups where
everyone gets a chance to get their hands dirty and get in the middle of the
cooking,” said Maggie Lacey with Windmill Market. And if you don’t want to get
your hands dirty, she said you can just sit back and watch while enjoying a
glass of wine.
“We offer private classes at any time for groups of 8 or
more at no additional charge,” she said, adding that if the class is a success
they will immediately plan more.
For information on the classes you can call the market at
251.990.8883.
