Statewide elected officials, fisherman, retailers,
wholesalers, and chefs gathered today at the Mobile Convention Center for the
first Alabama Gulf Seafood Summit. What I hope will be the first of many
organized events to promote the industry and bring all the necessary folks to
the same table seemed like a big hit for all involved. I was honored to be
there, listen and observe some heavy hitters of the industry, like the
Governor, buyers for Whole Foods, the Ag Commissioner, folks from the Dept of
Conservation, the Grocers Assoc and more. There were lots of interesting ideas,
networking, and plenty mention of the debilitating oil spill and its effects on the industry.
With all that said, I left the event as confused and frustrated
as ever before- and not just because a stalled out train was blocking my car
under the Convention Center for what seemed like an eternity. I feel like there
continues to be a disconnect between the Alabama seafood industry and the
consumer… and I don’t know why.
I have been watching the large-scale PR campaign for Alabama
Gulf Seafood since the oil spill and am impressed with the imagery of these
evocative ads. They motivate me to go right now, “Turn here!” as some
billboards say, and buy Alabama seafood. But where???
It is rare to find Alabama seafood in local and chain
restaurants. It is rarer still to find it in grocery stores. It is next to
impossible to find a seafood market anywhere between Orange Beach and Bayou la
Batre. That means thousands of consumers in Mobile and Baldwin counties have
inadequate access to local seafood. I know people who drive to Pensacola,
Florida (another state entirely) to buy their fresh catch! My own house is
within spitting distance of our waters and I do not know where to go to find
seafood.
As a consumer I am frustrated enough, but as a buyer for a
local grocery and restaurant, I feel the frustration on this end as well. There
are very limited options for local catch. For a while I thought perhaps I was
new to the industry, just didn’t know the right people or have the right
suppliers. But at the Summit I found myself in a conversation with several
other market and restaurant owners, chefs and caterers who said the same. Where
is the local seafood? Why is so hard for me to buy for my stores and my
customers?
Why is there such a disconnect between the seafood producers
and the consumers? Is the demand for local products just not there? There must
be some obstacles preventing this fresh seafood from reaching Alabamians.
Perhaps its government regulation, or conservation limits on fin fish, or
irregular supply from fisherman and uncooperative distributors. When it all comes down to it,
though, I think the blame needs to be put squarely on the face of the
consumers. I really can’t think of anyone else.
I know a few restaurants serve Alabama shrimp, or oysters
when in season, but Swai and Tilapia are the norm, don’t kid yourselves. And if
consumers are ok with that, or don’t care enough to even ask where its sourced,
how will anything ever change?
